Shin-length overcoats anchored Cerruti’s spring 2014 collection. Effortlessly paired with buttoned-up white shirts worn under black sweaters and, at times, innovatively strapped under the right chest, these sumptuous but lightweight woollen coats with notch lapels billowed under a tented runway on a rainy Paris afternoon. The look was classic and resolutely elegant. Square silk scarves, either worn dangling or neatly wrapped around the neck, further added to the French insouciance.
To some, the collection might have appeared lacklustre, but the clarity and apparent simplicity of the clothes were in fact a testament to designer Aldo Camillo’s deft hand at tailoring ultra-modern and precise menswear. With previous stints at Ermenegildo Zegna and the men’s department of Valentino, Camillo joined the House of Cerruti as artistic director in April last year and continues to push the code of ‘casual chic silhouettes’ that founder Nino Cerruti famously introduced with his first menswear collection in 1957.
Stand-out looks in the predominantly black-and-white show included the olive suits that invoked a military vibe, and the rich Merlot leather double-breasted coat paired with a khaki knit and accessorised with the ubiquitous rope-print silk scarf, loosely draped around the neck and tucked under the coat collar. Although the rope print was a tasteful accent when used on the scarf or the lining of a coat, it felt somewhat jarring as an all-over print on the white jackets that closed the show. But, all in all, it was a clever study in the beauty of unassuming style.